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 Post subject: HOW TO: Sway Bar, Steering Rack and LCA bushings
PostPosted: Wed May 10, 2017 6:43 pm 
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Joined: Sat Jan 03, 2015 9:19 pm
Posts: 693
Location: Denver
*Note* this is a work in progress, but I wanted to get it posted and get some feedback. If something isn't clear or doesn't make sense, please let me know and I will try to revise it. Also, I will be adding more pictures over the next few days. If you "see" something specific that you think a picture would help, let me know and I'll try to add it. Thanks!

Spent the last 2 days doing some preventative maintenance, replacing bushings. Namely the lower control arms, steering rack and sway bar. I figured they are all right next to each other so might as well knock them out all together.

This is for 95-04 Tacoma, but there is a lot of cross over for 4runner as well. Some part #s may be different as well as torque specs. Please verify on your own before ordering/torquing down bolts.

Part #s
Energy Suspension Bushings:
Steering Rack: 8.10103G
Sway Bar: 8.5118G (27mm)
Control Arm: 8.3115G

Moog Sway Bar End Links:
K90704 passenger side
K90705 driver's side

Toyota OEM Lower Ball Joints:
43330-39556 passenger side
43340-39436 driver's side

Sway Bar
Sway bar is pretty straight forward. This can be done either with the tires on the ground, or jacked up. Since I was doing items that required the wheels off the ground, I did. So, chock wheels, jack the front end up, put some jack stands under there and take off the wheels
Start by removing the end links using a 6mm hex head allen wrench to keep the threaded bolt from spinning while you loosen the 17mm nut. Do this for the top and bottom, and repeat for the other side.
(I was too busy trying to finish a lot of this up I didn’t get a lot of pictures, but I’ll “recreate” the disassembly when I put it all together and take some pictures.)
Note: My passenger end link looked pretty bad, leaking grease and very loose, and the driver’s side had a frozen nut and I ended up stripping the allen detent…..so I am forgoing the bushing change on the end links and just going to buy new ones.

Next there are 2 brackets, one on each side, with 4 bolts each (12mm). Once those are off, it’s a simple matter to slip the bushings out of the bracket and out from around the sway bar.

Steering Rack
With the sway bar out of the way, I tackled the steering rack next, as doing the LCA’s requires this to be done anyways.

If you haven’t already, jack the front, use some jack stands yada yada…

Also, lock the steering wheel. I used the seat belt, ran through the steering wheel as well as backup to the “lock”.

With the sway bar out of the way, take off the driver’s side outer tie-rod end castle nut (22mm) and cotter pin. Videos I saw showed a puller being used to break the tie rod free. I could not find any that fit mine, and had to resort to some heavy hammering. For whatever reason, I found that if I gave it a few good bangs, left it and came back a few minutes later, it seemed that within a few whacks it popped free. It worked, and saved me from having to hammer on the knuckle for 20 mintues straight. I’d also recommend eye protection and some ear plugs if you go this route.

If all you’re doing is this, you’re probably OK just removing the driver’s side tie-rod end. Again, I was planning on doing both my LCA’s, so I removed both at this point.
The steering rack is held on by 3 locations, starting from the driver’s side has a long through bolt (22mm) going front to back. The middle has a vertical bolt (19mm) which is removed from the top. The passenger side has a U shaped bracket with a nut on top and bolt on bottom (both 19mm).

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Driver’s Side:
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Middle:
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Passenger Side:
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There is also a 12mm bolt holding a bracket for the power steering lines, that if you remove it, gives you some more wiggle room with the rack to manipulate it.

Looking up to the driver’s side fender through the front differential brackets:
Imagephoto uploadingcertificity.com

I recommend a ratchet strap around the rack to prevent it from dropping and either hitting you or damaging the steering lines.

The U shaped bracket bushing is simple, the other two I used a ball joint press to push out the old bushings.

For the long horizontal bushing I used a small fitting from the press kit as a “catch” to give the bushing somewhere to push out to and once the threaded portion began to enter the housing of the rack I used a socket that was slightly smaller than the inside diameter to avoid damaging the surface.
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For the vertical bushing a similar set up was used but due to limited space and the size of the press kit fittings, a 32mm socket fit up there nicely to give the bushing room to exit.
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Use the provided lube generously on the outside/inside of the poly bushings and push them in. Then lube the outside of the metal sleeve and insert. I used a C-clamp with the washers to press the poly bushings and metal sleeves in.
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Be sure when you re-install the long through bolt that you use the provided washer between the steering rack and the frame member.
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The instructions stated to tighten the 2 outside points to line up the vertical center bolt. That worked great and I was able to thread it in by hand.

*note the long bolt goes in the U bracket and the short bolt goes in the vertical spot:
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Torque specs:
Horizontal through bolt: 141 ft/lb
Vertical Bolt: 123 ft/lb
U bracket nut/bolt: 123 ft/lb
Tie Rod castle nut: 53 ft/lb
Sway Bar Bracket: 19 ft/lb
Sway Bar End Link:
upper 22 ft/lb
lower 51 ft/lb
*note I left the steering rack loose while I proceeded on to the LCA bushings

LCA Bushings

If you are only doing this part, see the above for loosening the steering rack. It will have to be moved out of the way to remove the alignment cam bolts.

Make location marks on the 4 cam plates per side. I made 2 marks on each, at the 12 o’clock position and another at either 3 or 9 o’lock. Make sure you wipe all the grease and grime first, and I just used a black sharpie on the cam plates and a silver sharpie on the frame.
These are the cam adjusters on the outsides of the arms:
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These are the cam adjusters on the insides of the arms:
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Use a strap to keep the axle from excessive droop, I used a ratchet strap around the top of the shock tower, ran under the brake caliper.
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Remove the lower shock mount bolt (19mm)

Remove the lower ball joint castle nut and cotter pin (24mm). Use a puller, taking care to seat the jaws on the lip of the knuckle and not on the boot.
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Break free the cam adjusters (19mm & 22mm) When removing them, take note of the orientation of parts. There is a long bolt that gets inserted from the outside (in reference to the control arm) and an sleeve that slips over the bolt that has tines on the end towards the bolt head. These tines grip the outside cam plate. The other end has a couple of straight edges to grab the inside cam plate.

On the driver’s side, I removed the dust boot clip from the tie rod, so I could push the boot out of the way to allow clearance to get a wrench in there and remove the cam bolt.

You should now be able to remove the lower control arm. Mine wiggled free with some work, you might need to tap with a rubber mallet or use a small pry bar to work it loose.

With the Energy Suspension bushings you have to re-use the factory metal sleeves and washers. This definitely made the job time consuming and tedious, but once I figured out the best way to do it it actually went pretty fast. The first one however, took forever.

Here’s the process that worked for me. I’m not saying it’s the best or only way, but with tools I had at hand it worked.

Mount the lower control arm in a vice, and using a bottle jack, place it between the 2 bushings so that the bottom is resting on one end and the jack is pushing on the other. Apply some pressure, not too much at this point, and then apply heat using a torch. I had a MAPP torch. I basically heated it up until it started to smoke, then for a few more seconds. The goal here is not to light the rubber on fire, but to get it close to melting so that it separates from the metal and allows the bushing to push out. I also found that once it got to the level of heat, if I applied more force with the jack, backed it off, and then applied more pressure that seemed to help to break it loose. You can feel/hear when it starts to break free, and a few more pumps and it should pop out.
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This gives you a big metal sleeve, inside which is the rubber bushings, and smaller sleeve in the center. On either end are 2 washers. 1 big one oriented towards the outside, and a smaller one towards the inside.

Now the fun part of getting both sleeves and washers minus the rubber.
What I found worked for me was to put the bushing in the vice with the small washer oriented up. I applied the torch to the inside of the center sleeve, again, until I saw smoke and then a few more seconds. Then using a screw driver, I pried around between the washer and the sleeve to break the rubber free.
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While it was still hot, using some leather gloves, I set it up in the ball joint press. The screw yoke of the press was just the right size to push on the inner sleeve, if it is hot enough and enough of the rubber had been broken free in the prior step of prying, a small amount of pressure would pop the washer off and I could push the inner sleeve out of the rubber and bigger outer metal sleeve. Note that it really was not a lot of force if it was heated up enough, almost able to turn the screw by hand. Too much pressure and you risk deforming the washer, and you have to re-use it, so if it doesn’t want to go, listen to your gut and back it off and heat it up some more.
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The last one I did I finally found the sweet spot and the inner sleeve came out without any rubber hanging onto it. The rest, came out looking like this:
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Now you have the bigger outer metal sleeve, still with rubber in it. Using the torch on the outside of the sleeve, I heated it up until I saw smoke, then a few more seconds until I heard it sizzle/bubble. Using a rag and leather gloves to hold the sleeve, I used a screw driver to scrape/separate the rubber from the inside of the sleeve. Again, by the 4th bushing, I was able to pop out 1 piece of rubber bushing intact. The first few was a process of heat, scrape a section, heat some more, scrape some more until all the rubber was out.
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Now, there is probably still some remnant of rubber and dirt/corrosion, so I used an angle grinder with a wire wheel to clean up the outside of the sleeves, and a die grinder with a small abrasive wheel to clean up the inside of the larger metal sleeve.
The last step is to carefully bend the lip of the inner sleeve using some channel locks so that you can pop the washer back on. Do a little at a time and you should be able to get a positive “snap” back on that requires you to force it back off, as opposed to it just falling off on its own.
Now do this 3 more times and you’re ready to install new bushings!
Start by pressing the large metal sleeve into the control arm. It should be inserted from the outside pressing in. Apply some grease and use the ball joint press, a c-clamp or a shop press to press it in.
Next, use the provided lube from Energy Suspension and coat the outside surface of the poly bushing, and press it into the control arm, pressing from the outside. I used the ball joint press with a small plate to evenly distribute the force onto the bushing.
Now, take some more lube, and coat the outside of the inner sleeve and the inside of the poly bushing.
You should still have the large washer attached, and the small washer loose. Press it into the bushing, again from the outside to the inside. Again, I used the ball joint press with a small plate against the washer of the sleeve.
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Note the small cup on the back end of the press. Make sure you have something with a little room as a backer, as a flat plate will smoosh the lip of the inner sleeve that the washer must pop onto.
Once it is pressed in, pop on the small washer and do the other side. Then it’s time to re-assemble.
Follow the reverse order of reassembly taking care to line up your marks on the cam plates.

Torque Specs:
Cam Adjusting bolt: 96 ft/lb
Lower Shock Mount: 101 ft/lb
Outer Tie-rod castle nut: 53 ft/lb
Lower Control Arm castle nut: 105 ft/lb
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 Post subject: Re: HOW TO: Sway Bar, Steering Rack and LCA bushings
PostPosted: Thu May 11, 2017 7:25 am 
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Joined: Sat Jul 24, 2010 5:39 pm
Posts: 1301
Highscores: 14
Lots of good info. Thanks for posting Josh!


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